When researching Aizu-Wakamatsu, we found out that the area is actually famous for its onsen (hot spring baths). The interiors of one of the onsen resorts even inspired the design of the Infinite Castle in the anime Demon Slayer. Of course, that place was fully booked months in advance.
When we arrived at the ryokan, we were immediately greeted by the host. She asked us about our dietary preferences and assigned us a time slot to use the communal onsen bath. Then, we were guided to our room.
Aside from guests who have private baths in their rooms, all the other guests in the ryokan share two onsen baths. However, since bath time is assigned, every family gets an hour of the onsen to themselves. This definitely saved me from the awkwardness of seeing a bunch of butt-naked strangers. I know it's part of the unique onsen experience, but I don't think my acceptance level is quite there yet.
After a relaxing bath, it was time for dinner. We had our dinner in a public tatami room, but the staff carefully assigned different time slots and different dining rooms to the guests so that they could attend to us and we could have some privacy to chat freely while eating.
I knew that we were having a kaiseki (multiple-course) dinner. However, I had severely underestimated the amount of food we were going to be served. The scrumptious feast started with a bunch of small dishes made with seasonal and local ingredients. On top of that, we got to choose between raw horse meat and sashimi. We tried and liked both. My favorite food out of everything on the tray was the silken tofu made with corn. It tasted sweet and did not have the subtle ammoniac aroma of normal tofu made with soy beans.
After that, we were each served a fried fish. The attendant taught us how to pluck out the gills and seasoned the fish with vinegar. She then instructed us to eat the fish whole, starting from its head. I took two big bites and was at my limit. I don't like fish in general. Noel finished his fish and mine, and the attendant praised him for being skillful at eating fish.
The third course was vegetable and shrimp tempura. The tempura coating was light and airy while the ingredients were fresh. Everything went down the throat so smoothly, unlike some oily, deep-fried food that left me with a lump in my throat. I was very busy eating and forgot to take pictures of the fried fish and the tempura.
Moving on, the attendant brought us grilled beef, fluffy white rice, and miso soup. The miso soup tasted homemade, quite different from those we had tasted at franchises like Sukiya. Finally, dinner ended with a cold and fruity dessert.
The third course was vegetable and shrimp tempura. The tempura coating was light and airy while the ingredients were fresh. Everything went down the throat so smoothly, unlike some oily, deep-fried food that left me with a lump in my throat. I was very busy eating and forgot to take pictures of the fried fish and the tempura.
Moving on, the attendant brought us grilled beef, fluffy white rice, and miso soup. The miso soup tasted homemade, quite different from those we had tasted at franchises like Sukiya. Finally, dinner ended with a cold and fruity dessert.
The yellow lump on the bottom left of my tray was one of the small dishes I hadn't finished. Sadly, I can't recall what it was now.
We went back to our room, full and sleepy. After a good night's sleep, we woke up bright and early for another amazing meal.
Breakfast was equally lavish, with the main dish being wappameshi, steamed rice topped with either anchovies, salmon, or vegetables. We also got a variety of vegetable side dishes and a portion of herring.
We went back to our room, full and sleepy. After a good night's sleep, we woke up bright and early for another amazing meal.
Breakfast was equally lavish, with the main dish being wappameshi, steamed rice topped with either anchovies, salmon, or vegetables. We also got a variety of vegetable side dishes and a portion of herring.
The soup on the bottom left of the second picture is called kozuyu. It is served at formal, celebratory occasions such as weddings. The taste of the soup was very delicate.
Just when we were about to overstuff ourselves, the attendant told us that they could make our leftover flavored steamed rice into onigiri and pack it for us to eat on the road. What a kind gesture! We were delivered from this heavenly torment. We ended the meal with a cup of good old black coffee.
It's important to note that a ryokan is different from a hotel, so you might be disappointed if you go there with the expectation of getting the exact same amenities. I think one thing I did right was getting a room with an attached toilet and bathroom. The toilet came in handy after our very filling meals. Besides, we could freely shower and get ready in the morning.
Overall, I was really glad that I overcame my doubts and fear and stayed a night at a ryokan. A ryokan is truly the peak demonstration of Japanese hospitality. The one-night, two-meals experience (一泊二食) was invigorating. Now, I finally understand why Japanese companies and families like to have their annual gatherings at ryokans. It is indisputably a luxury, both for our bodies and our pockets.
Just when we were about to overstuff ourselves, the attendant told us that they could make our leftover flavored steamed rice into onigiri and pack it for us to eat on the road. What a kind gesture! We were delivered from this heavenly torment. We ended the meal with a cup of good old black coffee.
It's important to note that a ryokan is different from a hotel, so you might be disappointed if you go there with the expectation of getting the exact same amenities. I think one thing I did right was getting a room with an attached toilet and bathroom. The toilet came in handy after our very filling meals. Besides, we could freely shower and get ready in the morning.
Overall, I was really glad that I overcame my doubts and fear and stayed a night at a ryokan. A ryokan is truly the peak demonstration of Japanese hospitality. The one-night, two-meals experience (一泊二食) was invigorating. Now, I finally understand why Japanese companies and families like to have their annual gatherings at ryokans. It is indisputably a luxury, both for our bodies and our pockets.
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