Akabeko Mania 3/3: A Night at a Ryokan

Other than the Urabandai excursion, another highlight of our trip was a one-night stay at a ryokan. Ryokan is a Japanese-style inn. We stayed at Cuisine Inn Tagoto, which is sought after for its strategic location. It's only a 15-minute walk from the Aizu-Wakamatsu station.

When researching Aizu-Wakamatsu, we found out that the area is actually famous for its onsen (hot spring baths). The interiors of one of the onsen resorts even inspired the design of the Infinite Castle in the anime Demon Slayer. Of course, that place was fully booked months in advance.

When we arrived at the ryokan, we were immediately greeted by the host. She asked us about our dietary preferences and assigned us a time slot to use the communal onsen bath. Then, we were guided to our room.

Aside from guests who have private baths in their rooms, all the other guests in the ryokan share two onsen baths. However, since bath time is assigned, every family gets an hour of the onsen to themselves. This definitely saved me from the awkwardness of seeing a bunch of butt-naked strangers. I know it's part of the unique onsen experience, but I don't think my acceptance level is quite there yet.

After a relaxing bath, it was time for dinner. We had our dinner in a public tatami room, but the staff carefully assigned different time slots and different dining rooms to the guests so that they could attend to us and we could have some privacy to chat freely while eating.

I knew that we were having a kaiseki (multiple-course) dinner. However, I had severely underestimated the amount of food we were going to be served. The scrumptious feast started with a bunch of small dishes made with seasonal and local ingredients. On top of that, we got to choose between raw horse meat and sashimi. We tried and liked both. My favorite food out of everything on the tray was the silken tofu made with corn. It tasted sweet and did not have the subtle ammoniac aroma of normal tofu made with soy beans.

After that, we were each served a fried fish. The attendant taught us how to pluck out the gills and seasoned the fish with vinegar. She then instructed us to eat the fish whole, starting from its head. I took two big bites and was at my limit. I don't like fish in general. Noel finished his fish and mine, and the attendant praised him for being skillful at eating fish.

The third course was vegetable and shrimp tempura. The tempura coating was light and airy while the ingredients were fresh. Everything went down the throat so smoothly, unlike some oily, deep-fried food that left me with a lump in my throat. I was very busy eating and forgot to take pictures of the fried fish and the tempura.

Moving on, the attendant brought us grilled beef, fluffy white rice, and miso soup. The miso soup tasted homemade, quite different from those we had tasted at franchises like Sukiya. Finally, dinner ended with a cold and fruity dessert.

The yellow lump on the bottom left of my tray was one of the small dishes I hadn't finished. Sadly, I can't recall what it was now.

We went back to our room, full and sleepy. After a good night's sleep, we woke up bright and early for another amazing meal.

Breakfast was equally lavish, with the main dish being wappameshi, steamed rice topped with either anchovies, salmon, or vegetables. We also got a variety of vegetable side dishes and a portion of herring.

The soup on the bottom left of the second picture is called kozuyu. It is served at formal, celebratory occasions such as weddings. The taste of the soup was very delicate.

Just when we were about to overstuff ourselves, the attendant told us that they could make our leftover flavored steamed rice into onigiri and pack it for us to eat on the road. What a kind gesture! We were delivered from this heavenly torment. We ended the meal with a cup of good old black coffee.

It's important to note that a ryokan is different from a hotel, so you might be disappointed if you go there with the expectation of getting the exact same amenities. I think one thing I did right was getting a room with an attached toilet and bathroom. The toilet came in handy after our very filling meals. Besides, we could freely shower and get ready in the morning.

Overall, I was really glad that I overcame my doubts and fear and stayed a night at a ryokan. A ryokan is truly the peak demonstration of Japanese hospitality. The one-night, two-meals experience (一泊二食) was invigorating. Now, I finally understand why Japanese companies and families like to have their annual gatherings at ryokans. It is indisputably a luxury, both for our bodies and our pockets.

Read about part 1 here: Akabeko Mania 1/3: A Mountain City

Read about part 2 here: Akabeko Mania 2/3: A Hike and A Museum

Akabeko Mania 2/3: A Hike and A Museum

My favorite moment of the recent Japan trip was undoubtedly the half-day excursion to Urabandai. Since Noel and I had decided on our itinerary, I had been super excited about hiking the Goshikinuma (Five Colored Ponds) Nature Trail. The trail is beginner-friendly and takes about 70 to 90 minutes. 

Getting to Urabandai was slightly tricky because we needed to line up the timing of the JR train and the local bus so that we could reach the hiking spot in the morning and not at noon. Thankfully, Japan's reliable public transportation rewards everyone who does their research, so we were able to reach our destination without hiccups.

On top of the smooth journey, we also had the best weather for hiking: an overcast day with a temperature of around 23 degrees Celsius. Everyone was awed by the serene lakes and took turns to take pictures, commemorating their hikes. There were plenty of tourists at Urabandai, but international visitors were scarce. A local lady we talked to was very surprised that we would go all the way there from Malaysia.

This is the largest lake out of the five we viewed. Taking selfies of ourselves with the view was tricky. We made a mistake of not checking our camera equipment properly before heading out, and we realized we had trouble connecting the action camera with our phones when we wanted to take pictures. As a result, instead of amazing wide-angle selfies, we only had photos taken using 0.5x zoom phone camera.

A kind uncle offered to take a photo of us when we were at a smaller lake. Noel and I showcased our brightest smiles. But where's the pond? It's barely visibly in the photo. Nevertheless, thank you, uncle, for trying.

This is probably the best shot we had throughout the trail. The Japanese lady who asked us where we were from took this. She also took many other shots from various angles. Thank you!

After hiking, we had Kitakata ramen, a style of ramen originating from Kitakata, Fukushima. We tried both shio (salt) and soy sauce flavored ramen. I was pleasantly surprised by how light yet flavorful the shio-based broth was, a stark contrast to the tonkotsu broth we usually get at Japanese restaurants in Malaysia. I love the simplicity of Kitakata ramen. It's filling, but it didn't leave me with a food coma or foul breath.

After lunch and shopping for souvenirs, we went to the Morohashi Museum of Modern Art, which was another place I was eager to explore. According to the museum website, the museum’s collection of Dali works is the third largest in the world after those of the Dali Museum in Florida and the Dali Theatre and Museum in Spain. It is also the only museum in Asia where Dali’s works are on permanent exhibit.

The museum building and its compound are also a work of art. The building is majestic, and the overall landscape evokes a sense of tranquility.

I have seen quite a few Dali paintings on TV and in other museums before, so I'm no stranger to his signature motifs of melting clocks and half-open drawers. The visit to the Morohashi Museum opened my eyes to the beauty of Dali's sculptures.

My favorite sculpture was The Anthropomorphic Cabinet, featuring a human with an octopus head, half-lying on the floor. The lines of the tentacles and the shins are smooth while the lines of the drawers are sharp and straight. Overall, the sculpture looks clean, with each line carved crisply and purposefully. Photos are strictly prohibited in the museum, so I have nothing to show here.

From the hike to the ramen break to the museum visit, everything played out organically without the stress of traffic, the heat or the crowd. On our bus ride back to Inawashiro train station, Noel commented that I looked so happy while staring out of the window. Yes, I was. The greenery was indeed, for a lack of better term, healing.

Read about part 1 here: Akabeko Mania 1/3: A Mountain City

Read about part 3 here: Akabeko Mania 3/3: A Night at a Ryokan

Akabeko Mania 1/3: A Mountain City

This year, I have been incredibly blessed with the opportunities to visit four distinct places abroad: a beachside city (Phuket, Thailand), two metropolitan cities (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and Tokyo, Japan), and a city nestled in the mountains (Aizu-Wakamatsu, Fukushima, Japan).

Out of the four, I enjoyed the last city the most. As an Ipohan, I prefer mountains to beaches or high-rise buildings any day. Furthermore, just like many parts of Japan, the city is well-equipped with reliable public transportation and modern facilities, making the sightseeing experience pleasant and hassle-free.

Since Aizu-Wakamatsu is deep in the mountains, we took a bus that went through multiple mountain tunnels in order to get there. Along the way, I was completely mesmerized by the long stretches of dark green mountains and seemingly endless light green fields.

Viewing the city from the highest floor of Tsuruga Castle was such a feast for the eyes. I felt so safe just looking at the scenery of buildings being enveloped by lush mountains on all sides. Dense clouds loomed over the peaks, further enforcing a sense of serenity and security.

Here's a picture I took from the viewing platform of the castle. Please note that none of the photos I took could do justice to the breathtaking landscape I enjoyed. 

Mountains are extremely valuable for humans because they provide food, freshwater, wood, various minerals, and, last but not least, protection against enemies and disasters. Think of episodes 9 to 12 of Zom 100: Bucket List of the Dead! Although the plot takes place in Gunma, the concept applies in Fukushima, too. If there's a zombie apocalypse happening, villages in the valleys protected by mountain ranges are most likely the last chances for human survival.

For those interested in history, you can learn more about how feudal lords from different clans ruled over the city for generations from the Tsuruga Castle Museum. The exhibition in the museum is thoughtful, with lots of visual aids like photos and artifacts. Besides, you can ascend Limori Hill to study the history of Byakkotai (White Tiger Squad) in detail and visit the site where the boys committed seppuku. Since I'm neither a history enthusiast nor an expert, I won't dwell on it here.

This is one of my favorite pictures from the trip. The management of Tsuruga Castle has thoughtfully set up wooden handphone stands at a few places around the compound, so noobs like us who are not good at photography could get the perfect tourist photo easily.

Noel and I went up Limori Hill for its other landmark: the Sazaedo Temple. Built in 1746, it's made entirely out of wood with a unique double-helix structure and a spiral staircase. It's impressive how the wooden structure holds up even after years of weathering and exploration by visitors.

Those who have been following my IG Story would know that I went crazy over Akabeko, the good luck charm of Aizu region. Akabeko, which literally translates to Red Cow, is believed to ward off illness and bring good fortune. It originates from legends about a red cow that helped build a temple and the subsequent sparing of children from smallpox who owned the toy. In fact, the black dots on Akabeko symbolize smallpox. 

I'm a sucker for cute mascots. Last year, I regretted not getting more Shikamaru merchandises when we went to Nara. This year, I went all out and bought many Akabeko / Fukushima related merchandises. I sincerely think these character-designed / regional items make for wonderful souvenirs.

These are the things we got in Aizu-Wakamatsu, Urabandai, and Koriyama in Fukushima.

For your reference, our itinerary in Fukushima was partially planned by Google Gemini. Here's a screenshot of my instruction and a small part of Gemini's response. 

However, it's worth noting that Gemini's recommendations should serve only as a reference and not a step-by-step guide. Anyone who is considering AI as a travel planning tool should cross-check information presented by AI with the latest information updated on official websites or Google Maps. Other than that, you should take into consideration your own travel style. AI will try to fit as many attractions as possible into the given timeframe, but the suggestions might not be the most time and cost appropriate.

I have two more posts lined up about our adventure in Fukushima. So, please stay tuned.

Read about part 2 here: Akabeko Mania 2/3: A Hike and A Museum

Read about part 3 here: Akabeko Mania 3/3: A Night at a Ryokan

My Love in Phuket

It's September! It's my sister's birthday month! She's the best sibling one could ask for, so here's a post dedicated to her. While I sing her praises, I'll also be sharing some photos we took during our family vacation in Phuket earlier this year.

My sister is an expressive soul. Since young, she has been going above and beyond to affirm me that I'm being loved. She demonstrates all five love languages consistently. To begin with, her hugs are always warm and tight.

We used to spend time together playing Barbie dolls, watching American dramas, and playing games. Even though we don't meet each other frequently anymore, she would still pamper me with all sorts of trinkets, snacks, and useful daily items from time to time.

My sister is a firm believer that a clean house helps prevent diseases, so she cleans her living and working areas diligently. When we stayed together, I had the ease of mind knowing that I would always go home to a squeaky clean space. 

On top of that, she's an attentive listener. She patiently listens to all my yapping and often accurately identifies the root causes of my dilemmas. For me, she's that wise owl that sits quietly on the tree, observing everything but not commenting rashly. When she finally speaks, her hoots carry weight and pierce through the darkest of night.

Of course, I don't agree with what she says every time. In fact, I don't really agree with how she lives in general. If life were a simulation game, I would be on easy mode while she was peddling hard on harder than hard mode. I find her striving for perfection and self-attainment maddening yet endearing. Nevertheless, I mostly adore and admire her for how far she has come and how much she has changed.

When I think of my sister, I think of her as a champion. She has triumphed over loneliness by working abroad for nearly a decade without any family support. She has triumphed over the ugly crave for revenge by constantly having hope in humanity and the world despite the anguish she suffers. 

It's too corny to regard my sister as my role model. We ain't school children writing an essay for a class or an exam no more. I'll just say that my sister has heavily influenced me during my teens, and I hope I can keep her in my life for as long as possible. The thought of growing old can be scary sometimes. Knowing that there's someone who has known me since birth somewhere out there just a phone call away makes me feel better.

Happy birthday in advance, my beloved sister. May God continue to bless you with good health, safe journeys, plenty of happiness, and just the right amount of wealth.